Get to know us better on:
Twitter: https://twitter.com/fit2drive1
Instagram: http://instagram.com/fit2drive
Blog: http://fit2drive.blogspot.com/
Youtube:
http://www.youtube.com/channel/UCHu3fuaayZNXVS6vPywB5lA
Thank you.
Fortiter
Showing posts with label Tips About Vehicle. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Tips About Vehicle. Show all posts
Tuesday, 22 October 2013
The Right Way of Driver Sitting
We might be a driver for ages but somehow we also did things wrong. Here's a picture guideline to a new driver and the expert. The learning process is never end.
Get to know us better on:
Twitter: https://twitter.com/fit2drive1
Instagram: http://instagram.com/fit2drive
Blog: http://fit2drive.blogspot.com/
Youtube:
http://www.youtube.com/channel/UCHu3fuaayZNXVS6vPywB5lA
Thank you.
Get to know us better on:
Twitter: https://twitter.com/fit2drive1
Instagram: http://instagram.com/fit2drive
Blog: http://fit2drive.blogspot.com/
Youtube:
http://www.youtube.com/channel/UCHu3fuaayZNXVS6vPywB5lA
Thank you.
The Proper Way to Hold A Steering Wheel
Photo guideline of the proper way to hold a steering wheel. Be a fit driver and make sure your car is fit2drive!
Get to know us better on:
Twitter: https://twitter.com/fit2drive1
Instagram: http://instagram.com/fit2drive
Blog: http://fit2drive.blogspot.com/
Youtube:
http://www.youtube.com/channel/UCHu3fuaayZNXVS6vPywB5lA
Thank you.
Get to know us better on:
Twitter: https://twitter.com/fit2drive1
Instagram: http://instagram.com/fit2drive
Blog: http://fit2drive.blogspot.com/
Youtube:
http://www.youtube.com/channel/UCHu3fuaayZNXVS6vPywB5lA
Thank you.
Proton - CVT CFE
What Proton car uses CVT CFE? Preve, Suprima and Exora.
Why they calling Turbo engine as CFE? Because back then Malaysian have the bad impression towards Turbo engine. So for marketing, the name is CFE.
Why Malaysian back then have the bad impression towards Turbo engine? Because they got information from the wrong people out there.
Back then, Malaysian change their normal engine to Turbo because it is fast but they did not know that not all car can afford Turbo power.
Ended up their car have to be fixed again because high power of Turbo broke the pistons and shafts in engine
Why back then Turbo engine gives problem to car pistons and shafts? Because some cars cannot cope with Turbo power
They change the engine to Turbo at the wrong and unprofessional people, that is why Turbo engine gives problem thus have a bad impression.
That is why Proton use term of CFE instead of Turbo to name their engine. But now Malaysians not more have the bad impression.
Proton Suprima, Preve and Exora, they are using CVT CFE. And they can choose whether want to speed up as Turbo or working normal.
Those Proton cars can change how they want the engine works as by controlling pressure on the speed paddle.
Don't change your car parts at non established workshop. The services might be cheap but the probability of having problem is BIG.
Turbo engine should not be blamed, but people who changed their engine to Turbo without knowing the compatibility is the one.
Advantages of CVT:
1. No shift gear shock.
2. Smooth acceleration
3. Low engine revolution at constant speed
4. Improved emission control/fuel consumption
5. Low noise vibration and hardness levels
6. Flexible driving on mountain roads
Advantage of CFE/Turbo:
FAST AND SMOOTH!
Information from Proton CoE.
Proton Suprima S
Tuesday, 15 October 2013
Tips hidupkan enjin kereta apabila bateri lemah
Kecemasan!!!
Kecemasan!!!
Enjin Kereta Tak Hidup???
Disini ada cara untuk membantu menghidupkan kereta apabila bateri lemah
Apabila enjin tidak dapat dihidupkan dengan mudah kerana bateri dan/atau motor starter dalam keadaan rosak, biasanya enjin dapat start dengan prosedur berikut:
1: Menghidupkan enjin dengan menolak kenderaan bagi kereta manual. Meskipun bateri dalam keadaan lemah, enjin akan dapat dihidupkan dengan cara menolak kenderaan apabila bateri sekurang-kurangnya masih dapat dapat menerangkan lampu besar.
Pertama, nyalakan suis kemudian mintalah bantuan dua atau tiga orang untuk menolak kenderaan anda ke depan. Apabila kenderaan sudah berjalan cukup cepat, maka lepaskan pedal. Apabila enjin sudah dapat berfungsi, pijaklah segera pedal sementara itu pijaklah pedal minyak untuk meninggikan putaran enjin. Menggunakan prosedur yang sama, kereta juga dapat dihidupkan dengan cara ditarik kenderaan lain. Apapun, prosedur kedua-dua teknik itu tidak dapat digunakan untuk kereta automatik.
2: Satu lagi cara ialah dengan menghidupkan enjin dengan pertolongan bateri dari kenderaan lain. Jika ada kenderaan lain dengan bateri yang baik dan tersedia kabel yang cukup panjang, maka enjin dapat dihidupkan dengan menghubungkan terminal positif dengan positif dan negatif dengan negatif dari kedua-dua kenderaan itu. Kaedah ini dapat dilakukan apabila kedua-dua bateri mempunyai kuasa yang sama. Ketika suis kontak starter diputar, lazimnya motor starter berfungsi tetapi ada ketikanya gandar enjin tidak berputar. Dan dalam keadaan lain pula, ketika suis kontak starter diputar, enjin dapat berfungsi tetapi tidak berjalan dengan baik dan kemudian mati dengan tiba-tiba. Dalam keadaan itu, antara kerosakan yang mungkin berlaku adalah kerosakan pada motor starter, gigi motor starter atau roda daya rosak. Kejadian itu bukan kali pertama terjadi. Dalam keadaan lain ketika suis kontak diputar, motor starter berfungsi dan gandar enjin berputar cepat tetapi enjin tidak dapat berfungsi atau ketika suis kontak starter diputar, enjin dapat berfungsi tidak berjalan dengan baik dan kemudian mati dengan tiba-tiba.
Dalam kedua-dua kes itu mereka mungkin berhadapan dengan kerosakan pada sistem penyaluran bahan bakar (sistem petrol) atau sistem penyalaan. Apabila motor starter berfungsi dan dapat memutar gandar enjin dengan baik, tetapi enjin tidak dapat berfungsi, maka hal itu menunjukkan kerosakan tidak berlaku pada bateri dan peralatan start. Biasanya, apabila proses mampatan dapat berjalan lancar, enjin tidak akan secara tiba-tiba rosak. Justeru, kerosakan harus dicari pada sistem penyaluran petrol dan sistem penyalaannya.
Bila keadaan itu terjadi, perkara yang harus diperiksa adalah: adakah minyak dalam tangki, adakah minyak dalam karburetor cukup? Jika cukup, ini bermakna kerosakan mungkin terletak pada sistem penyalaan.
Jika melimpah pula (karburator basah), enjin sukar dihidupkan kerana minyak yang masuk dalam ruang pembakaran terlalu banyak. Minyak melimpah biasanya terjadi kerana tutup jarum yang mengendalikan kemasukan minyak ke ruang pelampung (dalam karburator) tidak berfungsi, mungkin kerana tersekat habuk. Jika melimpah adalah sebab kegagalan enjin dihidupkan, keluarkan minyak daripada karburator, bersihkan kotoran di tutup jarum dan masuk semula minyak.
Enjin yang karburetor melimpah boleh dihidupkan dengan cara berikut. Pijak pedal petrol sepenuhnya, jalankan motor starter. Minyak yang masuk dari karburetor ke silinder melalui saluran isap dapat dihilangkan dan selepas itu enjin dapat berfungsi. Kawal injak minyak sedemikian sehingga putaran enjin terlalu tinggi. Meskipun demikian, ada kemungkinan enjin tidak dapat berfungsi, sedangkan karburetor tetap melimpah. Dalam hal ini, bawalah ke mekanik anda untuk dibaiki.
Kecemasan!!!
Enjin Kereta Tak Hidup???
Disini ada cara untuk membantu menghidupkan kereta apabila bateri lemah
Apabila enjin tidak dapat dihidupkan dengan mudah kerana bateri dan/atau motor starter dalam keadaan rosak, biasanya enjin dapat start dengan prosedur berikut:
1: Menghidupkan enjin dengan menolak kenderaan bagi kereta manual. Meskipun bateri dalam keadaan lemah, enjin akan dapat dihidupkan dengan cara menolak kenderaan apabila bateri sekurang-kurangnya masih dapat dapat menerangkan lampu besar.
Pertama, nyalakan suis kemudian mintalah bantuan dua atau tiga orang untuk menolak kenderaan anda ke depan. Apabila kenderaan sudah berjalan cukup cepat, maka lepaskan pedal. Apabila enjin sudah dapat berfungsi, pijaklah segera pedal sementara itu pijaklah pedal minyak untuk meninggikan putaran enjin. Menggunakan prosedur yang sama, kereta juga dapat dihidupkan dengan cara ditarik kenderaan lain. Apapun, prosedur kedua-dua teknik itu tidak dapat digunakan untuk kereta automatik.
2: Satu lagi cara ialah dengan menghidupkan enjin dengan pertolongan bateri dari kenderaan lain. Jika ada kenderaan lain dengan bateri yang baik dan tersedia kabel yang cukup panjang, maka enjin dapat dihidupkan dengan menghubungkan terminal positif dengan positif dan negatif dengan negatif dari kedua-dua kenderaan itu. Kaedah ini dapat dilakukan apabila kedua-dua bateri mempunyai kuasa yang sama. Ketika suis kontak starter diputar, lazimnya motor starter berfungsi tetapi ada ketikanya gandar enjin tidak berputar. Dan dalam keadaan lain pula, ketika suis kontak starter diputar, enjin dapat berfungsi tetapi tidak berjalan dengan baik dan kemudian mati dengan tiba-tiba. Dalam keadaan itu, antara kerosakan yang mungkin berlaku adalah kerosakan pada motor starter, gigi motor starter atau roda daya rosak. Kejadian itu bukan kali pertama terjadi. Dalam keadaan lain ketika suis kontak diputar, motor starter berfungsi dan gandar enjin berputar cepat tetapi enjin tidak dapat berfungsi atau ketika suis kontak starter diputar, enjin dapat berfungsi tidak berjalan dengan baik dan kemudian mati dengan tiba-tiba.
Dalam kedua-dua kes itu mereka mungkin berhadapan dengan kerosakan pada sistem penyaluran bahan bakar (sistem petrol) atau sistem penyalaan. Apabila motor starter berfungsi dan dapat memutar gandar enjin dengan baik, tetapi enjin tidak dapat berfungsi, maka hal itu menunjukkan kerosakan tidak berlaku pada bateri dan peralatan start. Biasanya, apabila proses mampatan dapat berjalan lancar, enjin tidak akan secara tiba-tiba rosak. Justeru, kerosakan harus dicari pada sistem penyaluran petrol dan sistem penyalaannya.
Bila keadaan itu terjadi, perkara yang harus diperiksa adalah: adakah minyak dalam tangki, adakah minyak dalam karburetor cukup? Jika cukup, ini bermakna kerosakan mungkin terletak pada sistem penyalaan.
Jika melimpah pula (karburator basah), enjin sukar dihidupkan kerana minyak yang masuk dalam ruang pembakaran terlalu banyak. Minyak melimpah biasanya terjadi kerana tutup jarum yang mengendalikan kemasukan minyak ke ruang pelampung (dalam karburator) tidak berfungsi, mungkin kerana tersekat habuk. Jika melimpah adalah sebab kegagalan enjin dihidupkan, keluarkan minyak daripada karburator, bersihkan kotoran di tutup jarum dan masuk semula minyak.
Enjin yang karburetor melimpah boleh dihidupkan dengan cara berikut. Pijak pedal petrol sepenuhnya, jalankan motor starter. Minyak yang masuk dari karburetor ke silinder melalui saluran isap dapat dihilangkan dan selepas itu enjin dapat berfungsi. Kawal injak minyak sedemikian sehingga putaran enjin terlalu tinggi. Meskipun demikian, ada kemungkinan enjin tidak dapat berfungsi, sedangkan karburetor tetap melimpah. Dalam hal ini, bawalah ke mekanik anda untuk dibaiki.
The MYTH of warming up your engine
Lets get something straight. Car engines DON’T benefit at all from being warmed up before driving. You’re actually hurting your engine and polluting the environment the most by letting your cold engine idle.
The best thing to do is to turn the engine on, wait about 10-30 seconds (put your seat belt and music on) and start driving it lightly. That way you are warming up the engine to it’s optimal temperature as fast as possible.
You see guys, the car engine is just a MACHINE and this MACHINE operates most efficiently when it’s running at a certain temperature range. The faster the engine reaches that temperature, the better. Until the car is warmed up, the engine is wearing out much faster than normal because the engine oil provides the best protection against friction between all the moving metal parts when it’s it’s completely warmed up. Until it reaches that state, the engine is wearing out much faster than normal. Turning the engine on and immediately driving lightly warms the car up much faster than idling.
Drive healthily fellas!
Support our #fit2drive campaign.
https://www.facebook.com/fit2drive1
https://twitter.com/fit2drive1
The best thing to do is to turn the engine on, wait about 10-30 seconds (put your seat belt and music on) and start driving it lightly. That way you are warming up the engine to it’s optimal temperature as fast as possible.
You see guys, the car engine is just a MACHINE and this MACHINE operates most efficiently when it’s running at a certain temperature range. The faster the engine reaches that temperature, the better. Until the car is warmed up, the engine is wearing out much faster than normal because the engine oil provides the best protection against friction between all the moving metal parts when it’s it’s completely warmed up. Until it reaches that state, the engine is wearing out much faster than normal. Turning the engine on and immediately driving lightly warms the car up much faster than idling.
Drive healthily fellas!
Support our #fit2drive campaign.
https://www.facebook.com/fit2drive1
https://twitter.com/fit2drive1
How to Check Car Before Driving
Driving an automobile is one of the potentially most dangerous things people do, but you can prevent certain problems if you know how to check your car before driving. Visual inspections may prevent an accident caused by a blown tire,, and many other potential hazards.
Steps
Tips and Warnings
Short Trips
1
Check under the car for obvious leaks. Driving with leaking fluid may cause failure of the steering, brakes or radiator.
2
Check the tires for proper inflation and any obvious damage or signs of excessive wear. In a worst case scenario, a blown tire could cause you to crash.
3
Ask someone to stand behind your car to check the lights. Turn on the car and activate the directional signals, then apply the brakes and put the car in reverse so the person can see if lights are working correctly.
Ask the person to stand in front of the vehicle, then turn on the headlights and activate the directional signals.
4
Check the back seat or seats to make sure no one is hiding there. Carjackers sometimes hide in the back seat, then surprise the driver once the car is started.
5
Check your windows to make sure you have good visibility. Check mirrors to be sure they are aligned properly, giving you a proper view of the road.
6
Know how the gauges on your dashboard should look when everything is working properly. Check the gauges every time you start your car. Check the engine temperature gauge after the engine has had time to warm.
7
Check the vents, heating system and air conditioning to be sure they are in working order so you can can defog or defrost the windows when necessary.
Long Trips
1
Check fluids in the car periodically. Check the oil weekly. Check the brake and power steering fluids and engine coolant transmission fluids monthly or before a long trip to be sure they are full. Check fluids when the engine is cold. Fill the wiper fluid if necessary.
Read the owner's manual for directions on how to check the fluids. Engine fluid levels—including oil, brake fluid and power steering fluids—are easy to check via dipsticks found under the hood. Engine coolant is visible in a plastic container apart from the radiator on newer vehicles.
2
Have the battery tested before a trip. Although you can take have the battery tested by a mechanic, you can check for obvious signs of corrosion on the terminals or for signs of cracks or leaks. Have the battery fixed or replaced immediately if you find anything wrong.
3
Activate your windshield wipers and sprayer to be certain they work.
4
Check your air filter before a long trip, as it can affect fuel efficiency and engine performance.
5
Make sure the spare tire is inflated and serviceable and the jack is present. It's a good idea to check them periodically even if you aren't going on a long trip.
Tips
Service stations check automobiles for drivers taking long road trips. A service station or mechanic should also check the steering, suspension and drive train.
Photo: How to Check Car Before Driving
Driving an automobile is one of the potentially most dangerous things people do, but you can prevent certain problems if you know how to check your car before driving. Visual inspections may prevent an accident caused by a blown tire,, and many other potential hazards.
Support our #fit2drive campaign.
https://www.facebook.com/fit2drive1
https://twitter.com/fit2drive1
Steps
Tips and Warnings
Short Trips
1
Check under the car for obvious leaks. Driving with leaking fluid may cause failure of the steering, brakes or radiator.
2
Check the tires for proper inflation and any obvious damage or signs of excessive wear. In a worst case scenario, a blown tire could cause you to crash.
3
Ask someone to stand behind your car to check the lights. Turn on the car and activate the directional signals, then apply the brakes and put the car in reverse so the person can see if lights are working correctly.
Ask the person to stand in front of the vehicle, then turn on the headlights and activate the directional signals.
4
Check the back seat or seats to make sure no one is hiding there. Carjackers sometimes hide in the back seat, then surprise the driver once the car is started.
5
Check your windows to make sure you have good visibility. Check mirrors to be sure they are aligned properly, giving you a proper view of the road.
6
Know how the gauges on your dashboard should look when everything is working properly. Check the gauges every time you start your car. Check the engine temperature gauge after the engine has had time to warm.
7
Check the vents, heating system and air conditioning to be sure they are in working order so you can can defog or defrost the windows when necessary.
Long Trips
1
Check fluids in the car periodically. Check the oil weekly. Check the brake and power steering fluids and engine coolant transmission fluids monthly or before a long trip to be sure they are full. Check fluids when the engine is cold. Fill the wiper fluid if necessary.
Read the owner's manual for directions on how to check the fluids. Engine fluid levels—including oil, brake fluid and power steering fluids—are easy to check via dipsticks found under the hood. Engine coolant is visible in a plastic container apart from the radiator on newer vehicles.
2
Have the battery tested before a trip. Although you can take have the battery tested by a mechanic, you can check for obvious signs of corrosion on the terminals or for signs of cracks or leaks. Have the battery fixed or replaced immediately if you find anything wrong.
3
Activate your windshield wipers and sprayer to be certain they work.
4
Check your air filter before a long trip, as it can affect fuel efficiency and engine performance.
5
Make sure the spare tire is inflated and serviceable and the jack is present. It's a good idea to check them periodically even if you aren't going on a long trip.
Tips
Service stations check automobiles for drivers taking long road trips. A service station or mechanic should also check the steering, suspension and drive train.
Photo: How to Check Car Before Driving
Driving an automobile is one of the potentially most dangerous things people do, but you can prevent certain problems if you know how to check your car before driving. Visual inspections may prevent an accident caused by a blown tire,, and many other potential hazards.
Support our #fit2drive campaign.
https://www.facebook.com/fit2drive1
https://twitter.com/fit2drive1
How to protect your car in hot weather
Cars need a little protection from the hot weather to ensure that they run optimally and don't end up with cracked upholstery. As for those traveling inside the car, the minimization of heat is essential!
Protect your parked car from heat. Car upholstery, dashboards and steering wheels can suffer from too much sunlight and heat beaming down on them regularly. If you have to park in the sunshine during summer on a daily basis, do what you can do protect the inside part of the car. Some of the things you can do include:
1
Use a windshield sun shade. This is usually something that folds out and then folds up easily for storing behind the seat. If you put up a shade every time you use the car, it'll help cut the sun's rays and can reduce a bit of the heat. While you can use just one for the front, a back window shade can also be helpful for some car types.
2
Protect the upholstery and dashboard with products. There are products available that can provide an additional protective layer, such as vinyl or leather protectants.
3
Consider getting tinted windows. If you leave the car parked in the sun a lot and it causes cracking of the upholstery, etc., tinting may be an option. However, you'll need to check your local regulations as some jurisdictions don't allow tinted windows for safety or other reasons.
4
Park in the shade. Wherever possible, find shady or indoor car parking during the hottest parts of the day. In some places this is possible if there are carparks lined along a park or in leafy neighborhoods. Obviously, many places lack trees for shade but check out building shade––try to look for streets where the shade created by buildings will be passing over your car during the hottest part of the day.
5
Check the car's battery. Excessive fluid evaporation can reduce the life of the battery. If it's the type of battery that needs liquid top-ups, add distilled water when needed.
6
Keep an eye on the coolant. This should be topped up when needed. Of course, don't open the radiator cap when the car is still running hot; wait at least an hour after using the car before opening.
7
Travel when it's cooler. Try to target your driving times for the cooler parts of the day, such as early morning or late evening. This will make it a lot more pleasant for both the driver and any passengers.
Keep the car clean. A shinier car will reflect more of the sun's rays, while a dirtier car will absorb more heat.
Tire pressure can change considerably after a series of very hot days. Hot weather causes pressure to rise, so check when the day is cooler. The car's manual will tell you the correct pressure to expect.
Support our #fit2drive campaign.
https://www.facebook.com/fit2drive1
https://twitter.com/fit2drive1
Protect your parked car from heat. Car upholstery, dashboards and steering wheels can suffer from too much sunlight and heat beaming down on them regularly. If you have to park in the sunshine during summer on a daily basis, do what you can do protect the inside part of the car. Some of the things you can do include:
1
Use a windshield sun shade. This is usually something that folds out and then folds up easily for storing behind the seat. If you put up a shade every time you use the car, it'll help cut the sun's rays and can reduce a bit of the heat. While you can use just one for the front, a back window shade can also be helpful for some car types.
2
Protect the upholstery and dashboard with products. There are products available that can provide an additional protective layer, such as vinyl or leather protectants.
3
Consider getting tinted windows. If you leave the car parked in the sun a lot and it causes cracking of the upholstery, etc., tinting may be an option. However, you'll need to check your local regulations as some jurisdictions don't allow tinted windows for safety or other reasons.
4
Park in the shade. Wherever possible, find shady or indoor car parking during the hottest parts of the day. In some places this is possible if there are carparks lined along a park or in leafy neighborhoods. Obviously, many places lack trees for shade but check out building shade––try to look for streets where the shade created by buildings will be passing over your car during the hottest part of the day.
5
Check the car's battery. Excessive fluid evaporation can reduce the life of the battery. If it's the type of battery that needs liquid top-ups, add distilled water when needed.
6
Keep an eye on the coolant. This should be topped up when needed. Of course, don't open the radiator cap when the car is still running hot; wait at least an hour after using the car before opening.
7
Travel when it's cooler. Try to target your driving times for the cooler parts of the day, such as early morning or late evening. This will make it a lot more pleasant for both the driver and any passengers.
Keep the car clean. A shinier car will reflect more of the sun's rays, while a dirtier car will absorb more heat.
Tire pressure can change considerably after a series of very hot days. Hot weather causes pressure to rise, so check when the day is cooler. The car's manual will tell you the correct pressure to expect.
Support our #fit2drive campaign.
https://www.facebook.com/fit2drive1
https://twitter.com/fit2drive1
How to change a flat tyre
1. Find a flat, stable and safe place to change your tire. You need a solid, level surface that will restrict the car from rolling. If you are near a road, park as far from traffic as possible and turn on your emergency flashers (hazard lights). Avoid soft ground and hills.
2. Apply the parking brake and put car into "Park" position. If you have a standard transmission, put your vehicle in first or reverse.
3. Place a heavy object (e.g., rock, concrete, spare wheel, etc.) in front of the front and back tires.
4. Take out the spare tire and the jack. Place the jack under the frame near the tire that you are going to change. Ensure that the jack is in contact with the metal portion of your car's frame.
5. Raise the jack until it is supporting (but not lifting) the car. The jack should be firmly in place against the underside of the vehicle. Check to make sure that the jack is perpendicular to the ground.
6. Remove the hub cap and loosen the nuts by turning counterclockwise. Don't take them all the way off; just break the resistance. By keeping the wheel on the ground when you first loosen the nuts, you'll make that you're turning the nuts instead of the wheel.
7. Pump or crank the jack to lift the tire off the ground. You need to lift it high enough to remove the flat tire and replace it with a spare.
8. Remove the nuts the rest of the way. Turn them counter clockwise until they are loose. Repeat with all lug nuts, then remove the nuts completely.
9. Remove the tire. Place the flat tire under the vehicle so in the event of a jack failure the vehicle will fall on the old wheel, hopefully preventing injury. If the jack is placed on a flat, solid base, you shouldn't have any problems.
10. Place the spare tire on the hub. Take care to align the rim of the spare tire with the wheel bolts, then put on the lug nuts.
11. Tighten the nuts by hand until they are all snug. They should turn easily at first.
12. Lower the car without applying full weight on the tire. Tighten the nuts as much as possible.
13. Lower the car to the ground fully and remove the jack. Finish tightening the nuts and replace the hubcap.
14. Put the old tire in your trunk and take it to a mechanic. Get an estimate for the cost of repair. Small punctures can usually be repaired for less than RM15. If the tire is not repairable, they can dispose of it properly and sell you a replacement.
Support our #fit2drive campaign.
https://www.facebook.com/fit2drive1
https://twitter.com/fit2drive1
2. Apply the parking brake and put car into "Park" position. If you have a standard transmission, put your vehicle in first or reverse.
3. Place a heavy object (e.g., rock, concrete, spare wheel, etc.) in front of the front and back tires.
4. Take out the spare tire and the jack. Place the jack under the frame near the tire that you are going to change. Ensure that the jack is in contact with the metal portion of your car's frame.
5. Raise the jack until it is supporting (but not lifting) the car. The jack should be firmly in place against the underside of the vehicle. Check to make sure that the jack is perpendicular to the ground.
6. Remove the hub cap and loosen the nuts by turning counterclockwise. Don't take them all the way off; just break the resistance. By keeping the wheel on the ground when you first loosen the nuts, you'll make that you're turning the nuts instead of the wheel.
7. Pump or crank the jack to lift the tire off the ground. You need to lift it high enough to remove the flat tire and replace it with a spare.
8. Remove the nuts the rest of the way. Turn them counter clockwise until they are loose. Repeat with all lug nuts, then remove the nuts completely.
9. Remove the tire. Place the flat tire under the vehicle so in the event of a jack failure the vehicle will fall on the old wheel, hopefully preventing injury. If the jack is placed on a flat, solid base, you shouldn't have any problems.
10. Place the spare tire on the hub. Take care to align the rim of the spare tire with the wheel bolts, then put on the lug nuts.
11. Tighten the nuts by hand until they are all snug. They should turn easily at first.
12. Lower the car without applying full weight on the tire. Tighten the nuts as much as possible.
13. Lower the car to the ground fully and remove the jack. Finish tightening the nuts and replace the hubcap.
14. Put the old tire in your trunk and take it to a mechanic. Get an estimate for the cost of repair. Small punctures can usually be repaired for less than RM15. If the tire is not repairable, they can dispose of it properly and sell you a replacement.
Support our #fit2drive campaign.
https://www.facebook.com/fit2drive1
https://twitter.com/fit2drive1
How do I know if I need new wiper blades?
Here are some other signs that new wiper blades are in order:
1. Streaking or hazing on the windshield when it rains
2. A chattering sound when your wipers are on.
3. The blades are pulling away from the windshield at higher speeds, instead of sitting snugly against the windshield.
4. The rubber has split into sections or pulled away from the wiper arm.
5. The rubber edge looks worn or torn in places or the metal arm is bent or cracked.
Continue supporting us. Thank you.
Support our #fit2drive campaign.
https://www.facebook.com/fit2drive1
https://twitter.com/fit2drive1
1. Streaking or hazing on the windshield when it rains
2. A chattering sound when your wipers are on.
3. The blades are pulling away from the windshield at higher speeds, instead of sitting snugly against the windshield.
4. The rubber has split into sections or pulled away from the wiper arm.
5. The rubber edge looks worn or torn in places or the metal arm is bent or cracked.
Continue supporting us. Thank you.
Support our #fit2drive campaign.
https://www.facebook.com/fit2drive1
https://twitter.com/fit2drive1
How to jumpstart a car
If your battery has died, you may be able to use jumper cables to jump start it from some good vehicle. If you can safely use jumper cables on your vehicle, make sure that the battery on the good vehicle has at least as much voltage as your own. As long as you hook up the cables properly, it doesn’t matter whether your vehicle has negative ground and the other’s vehicle has positive ground, or your vehicle has an alternator and the other’s vehicle has a generator.
If either vehicle has an electronic ignition system or is an alternatively fueled vehicle, the use of jumper cables may damage it.
To safely jump a start, follow these steps:
Take out your jumper cables.
It’s a good idea to buy a set of jumper cables and keep them in the trunk compartment. If you don’t have jumper cables, you have to find a good citizen of Malaysia who not only is willing to assist you but who has jumper cables as well.
Place both vehicles in Park or Neutral and shut off the ignition in both cars.
Engage both parking brakes as well.
Attach one of the red clips to the positive terminal of your battery.
It has “POS” or “+” on it, or it’s bigger than the negative terminal.
Attach the other red clip to the positive terminal of the other car.
Attach one of the black clips to the negative terminal on the other battery.
Attach the last black clip to an unpainted metal surface on your car that isn’t near the battery.
Use one of the metal struts that holds the hood open.
Make sure to connect jumper cables in the proper order.
Try to start your vehicle.
If it won’t start, make sure that the cables are properly connected and have the good Samaritan run his or her engine for five minutes. Then try to start your car again. If it still won’t start, your battery may be beyond help.
If the jump works and your car starts, don’t shut off your engine! Drive around for at least 15 minutes to recharge your battery. If the car won’t start the next time you use it, the battery isn’t holding a charge and needs to be replaced.
Brought to you by Fortiter for #fit2drive
Support our #fit2drive campaign.
https://www.facebook.com/fit2drive1
https://twitter.com/fit2drive1
If either vehicle has an electronic ignition system or is an alternatively fueled vehicle, the use of jumper cables may damage it.
To safely jump a start, follow these steps:
Take out your jumper cables.
It’s a good idea to buy a set of jumper cables and keep them in the trunk compartment. If you don’t have jumper cables, you have to find a good citizen of Malaysia who not only is willing to assist you but who has jumper cables as well.
Place both vehicles in Park or Neutral and shut off the ignition in both cars.
Engage both parking brakes as well.
Attach one of the red clips to the positive terminal of your battery.
It has “POS” or “+” on it, or it’s bigger than the negative terminal.
Attach the other red clip to the positive terminal of the other car.
Attach one of the black clips to the negative terminal on the other battery.
Attach the last black clip to an unpainted metal surface on your car that isn’t near the battery.
Use one of the metal struts that holds the hood open.
Make sure to connect jumper cables in the proper order.
Try to start your vehicle.
If it won’t start, make sure that the cables are properly connected and have the good Samaritan run his or her engine for five minutes. Then try to start your car again. If it still won’t start, your battery may be beyond help.
If the jump works and your car starts, don’t shut off your engine! Drive around for at least 15 minutes to recharge your battery. If the car won’t start the next time you use it, the battery isn’t holding a charge and needs to be replaced.
Brought to you by Fortiter for #fit2drive
Support our #fit2drive campaign.
https://www.facebook.com/fit2drive1
https://twitter.com/fit2drive1
Myths about car care
There are many myths about car care. Some are true, and some are just make up to profit the third party, Here's some car care myths that you should know and ignore.
Myth 1
Engine oil should be changed every 3,000 miles.
Reality: Despite what oil companies and quick-lube shops often claim, it's usually not necessary. Stick to the service intervals in your car's owner's manual. Under normal driving conditions, most vehicles are designed to go 7,500 miles or more between oil changes. Changing oil more often doesn't hurt the engine, but it can cost you a lot of extra money. Automakers often recommend 3,000-mile intervals for severe driving conditions, such as constant stop-and-go driving, frequent trailer-towing, mountainous terrain, or dusty conditions.
Myth 2
Inflate tires to the pressure shown on the tire's sidewall.
Reality: The pounds-per-square-inch figure on the side of the tire is the maximum pressure that the tire can safely hold, not the automaker's recommended pressure, which provides the best balance of braking, handling, gas mileage, and ride comfort. That figure is usually found on a doorjamb sticker, in the glove box, or on the fuel-filler door. Perform a monthly pressure check when tires are cold or after the car has been parked for a few hours.
Myth 3
If the brake fluid is low, topping it off will fix the problem.
Reality: As brake pads wear, the level in the brake-fluid reservoir drops a bit. That helps you monitor brake wear. If the fluid level drops to or below the Low mark on the reservoir, then either your brakes are worn out or fluid is leaking. Either way, get the brake system serviced immediately. You should also get a routine brake inspection when you rotate the tires, about every 6,000 to 7,000 miles.
Myth 4
If regular-grade fuel is good, premium must be better.
Reality: Most vehicles run just fine on regular-grade (87 octane) fuel. Using premium in these cars won't hurt, but it won't improve performance, either. A higher-octane number simply means that the fuel is less prone to pre-ignition problems, so it's often specified for hotter running, high-compression engines. So if your car is designed for 87-octane fuel, don't waste money on premium.
Myth 5
Flush the coolant with every oil change.
Reality: Radiator coolant doesn't need to be replaced very often. Most owner's manuals recommend changing the coolant every five years or 60,000 miles. Of course, if the level in the coolant reservoir is chronically low, check for a leak and get service as soon as possible.
Myth 6
After a jump-start, your car will soon recharge the battery.
Reality: It could take hours of driving to restore a battery's full charge, especially in the winter. That's because power accessories, such as heated seats, draw so much electricity that in some cars the alternator has little left over to recharge a run-down battery. A"load test" at a service station can determine whether the battery can still hold a charge. If so, some hours on a battery charger might be needed to revive the battery to its full potential.
Myth 7
Let your engine warm up for several minutes before driving.
Reality: That might have been good advice for yesteryear's cars but is less so today. Modern engines warm up more quickly when they're driven. And the sooner they warm up, the sooner they reach maximum efficiency and deliver the best fuel economy and performance. But don't rev the engine high over the first few miles while it's warming up.
Myth 8
A dealership must perform regular maintenance to keep your car's factory warranty valid.
Reality: As long as the maintenance items specified in the vehicle owner's manual are performed on schedule, the work can be done at any auto-repair shop. If you're knowledgeable, you can even do the work yourself. Just keep accurate records and receipts to back you up in case of a warranty dispute on a future repair.
Myth 9
Dishwashing and laundry detergents make a good car wash.
Reality: Detergent can strip off a car's wax finish. Instead, use a car-wash liquid, which is formulated to clean without removing wax.
Support our #fit2drive campaign.
https://www.facebook.com/fit2drive1
https://twitter.com/fit2drive1
Myth 1
Engine oil should be changed every 3,000 miles.
Reality: Despite what oil companies and quick-lube shops often claim, it's usually not necessary. Stick to the service intervals in your car's owner's manual. Under normal driving conditions, most vehicles are designed to go 7,500 miles or more between oil changes. Changing oil more often doesn't hurt the engine, but it can cost you a lot of extra money. Automakers often recommend 3,000-mile intervals for severe driving conditions, such as constant stop-and-go driving, frequent trailer-towing, mountainous terrain, or dusty conditions.
Myth 2
Inflate tires to the pressure shown on the tire's sidewall.
Reality: The pounds-per-square-inch figure on the side of the tire is the maximum pressure that the tire can safely hold, not the automaker's recommended pressure, which provides the best balance of braking, handling, gas mileage, and ride comfort. That figure is usually found on a doorjamb sticker, in the glove box, or on the fuel-filler door. Perform a monthly pressure check when tires are cold or after the car has been parked for a few hours.
Myth 3
If the brake fluid is low, topping it off will fix the problem.
Reality: As brake pads wear, the level in the brake-fluid reservoir drops a bit. That helps you monitor brake wear. If the fluid level drops to or below the Low mark on the reservoir, then either your brakes are worn out or fluid is leaking. Either way, get the brake system serviced immediately. You should also get a routine brake inspection when you rotate the tires, about every 6,000 to 7,000 miles.
Myth 4
If regular-grade fuel is good, premium must be better.
Reality: Most vehicles run just fine on regular-grade (87 octane) fuel. Using premium in these cars won't hurt, but it won't improve performance, either. A higher-octane number simply means that the fuel is less prone to pre-ignition problems, so it's often specified for hotter running, high-compression engines. So if your car is designed for 87-octane fuel, don't waste money on premium.
Myth 5
Flush the coolant with every oil change.
Reality: Radiator coolant doesn't need to be replaced very often. Most owner's manuals recommend changing the coolant every five years or 60,000 miles. Of course, if the level in the coolant reservoir is chronically low, check for a leak and get service as soon as possible.
Myth 6
After a jump-start, your car will soon recharge the battery.
Reality: It could take hours of driving to restore a battery's full charge, especially in the winter. That's because power accessories, such as heated seats, draw so much electricity that in some cars the alternator has little left over to recharge a run-down battery. A"load test" at a service station can determine whether the battery can still hold a charge. If so, some hours on a battery charger might be needed to revive the battery to its full potential.
Myth 7
Let your engine warm up for several minutes before driving.
Reality: That might have been good advice for yesteryear's cars but is less so today. Modern engines warm up more quickly when they're driven. And the sooner they warm up, the sooner they reach maximum efficiency and deliver the best fuel economy and performance. But don't rev the engine high over the first few miles while it's warming up.
Myth 8
A dealership must perform regular maintenance to keep your car's factory warranty valid.
Reality: As long as the maintenance items specified in the vehicle owner's manual are performed on schedule, the work can be done at any auto-repair shop. If you're knowledgeable, you can even do the work yourself. Just keep accurate records and receipts to back you up in case of a warranty dispute on a future repair.
Myth 9
Dishwashing and laundry detergents make a good car wash.
Reality: Detergent can strip off a car's wax finish. Instead, use a car-wash liquid, which is formulated to clean without removing wax.
Support our #fit2drive campaign.
https://www.facebook.com/fit2drive1
https://twitter.com/fit2drive1
Kereta berasap. APA PERLU BUAT?
Kadang-kadang apabila kita dalam perjalanan pulang ke kampung untuk cuti perayaan, kita dapat melihat kereta berasap di tepi jalan. Pasti ada sesuatu yang terjadi kepada kenderaan tersebut. Antara puncanya ialah:
1. Kurang air dalam radiator
2. Paip radiator tersumbat
3. Kekotoran pada sirip radiator
4. Kerosakan pada kipas dan termostat sistem penyejuk
5. Sistem penyalaan kurang tepat
6. Sistem saluran petrol rosak
7. Ekzos tersumbat
8. Brek bergesel
Dan cara pengendalian kenderaan yang kurang baik turut menyebabkan enjin menjadi panas.
Apa perlu buat?
1) Berhentilah di tepi jalan dengan tempat teduh. Jangan panik, cuba lakukan pemeriksaan sendiri terlebih dulu.
2) Buka bonet kenderaan untuk menyejukkan enjin sementara waktu (tidak perlu matikan enjin untuk langkah ini)
3) Periksa jika berlaku kebocoran pada radiator dan jika tali kipas putus. Matikan enjin jika berlaku kebocoran pada radiator ataupun tali kipas putus. Jika tiada apa yang berlaku, jalankan seketika pada putaran yang lebih tinggi.
4) Selepas itu, turunkan putaran enjin dan buka penutup radiator. (BUKA DENGAN BERHATI-HATI. KEMUNGKINAN SEMBURAN AIR DAN WAP PANAS)
5) Isi air ke dalam radiator secara perlahan-lahan semasa enjin dalam keadaan biasa.
6) Matikan enjin sekiranya sudah sejuk.
Pesanan dari Fortiter, untuk #fit2drive
Support our #fit2drive campaign.
https://www.facebook.com/fit2drive1
https://twitter.com/fit2drive1
1. Kurang air dalam radiator
2. Paip radiator tersumbat
3. Kekotoran pada sirip radiator
4. Kerosakan pada kipas dan termostat sistem penyejuk
5. Sistem penyalaan kurang tepat
6. Sistem saluran petrol rosak
7. Ekzos tersumbat
8. Brek bergesel
Dan cara pengendalian kenderaan yang kurang baik turut menyebabkan enjin menjadi panas.
Apa perlu buat?
1) Berhentilah di tepi jalan dengan tempat teduh. Jangan panik, cuba lakukan pemeriksaan sendiri terlebih dulu.
2) Buka bonet kenderaan untuk menyejukkan enjin sementara waktu (tidak perlu matikan enjin untuk langkah ini)
3) Periksa jika berlaku kebocoran pada radiator dan jika tali kipas putus. Matikan enjin jika berlaku kebocoran pada radiator ataupun tali kipas putus. Jika tiada apa yang berlaku, jalankan seketika pada putaran yang lebih tinggi.
4) Selepas itu, turunkan putaran enjin dan buka penutup radiator. (BUKA DENGAN BERHATI-HATI. KEMUNGKINAN SEMBURAN AIR DAN WAP PANAS)
5) Isi air ke dalam radiator secara perlahan-lahan semasa enjin dalam keadaan biasa.
6) Matikan enjin sekiranya sudah sejuk.
Pesanan dari Fortiter, untuk #fit2drive
Support our #fit2drive campaign.
https://www.facebook.com/fit2drive1
https://twitter.com/fit2drive1
7 SIMPLE STEPS TO DO BEFORE STARTING A LONG JOURNEY.
1
Check fluids in the car periodically. Check the oil weekly. Check the brake and power steering fluids and engine coolant transmission fluids monthly or before a long trip to be sure they are full. Check fluids when the engine is cold. Fill the wiper fluid if necessary. Read the owner's manual for directions on how to check the fluids. Engine fluid levels—including oil, brake fluid and power steering fluids—are easy to check via dipsticks found under the hood. Engine coolant is visible in a plastic container apart from the radiator on newer vehicles.
2
Test the battery before a trip. Although you can take have the battery tested by a mechanic, you can check for obvious signs of corrosion on the terminals or for signs of cracks or leaks. Have the battery fixed or replaced immediately if you find anything wrong.
3
Activate your windshield wipers and sprayer to be certain they work. If your washers and wipers are not working effectively, you could be putting yourself in serious danger. If the weather turns bad suddenly or you need to remove something from your windscreen in a hurry. You should therefore check the condition of your wipers on a regular basis. Make sure there are no cracks or sections which may split, and replace them if you suspect even the slightest bit of damage.
4
Check your air filter before a long trip, as it can affect fuel efficiency and engine performance. If it's been a long time since you changed your air filter, it might be a good idea to change it before a trip. A dirty air filter will cause lack of power. If you want to change it yourself, your owner's manual has the directions.
5
Check your tire wear by using a penny or tread gauge. Tires heat up on long trips which can cause blowouts on worn out tires. Make sure the spare tire is inflated and serviceable and the jack is present. It's a good idea to check them periodically even if you aren't going on a long trip.
6
Check to be certain that all lights and signals are functional on your car. You will need the help of another person for this. Sit in the car, turn on each light or signal and ask your friend to tell you if it is working or not. Replace bulbs as necessary. Note: occasionally, lights may not work because a fuse needs replacing.
7
Ensure that you have all emergency equipment inside your car, and that everything works properly. Emergency equipment includes, an up-to-date map, cell phone, spare tires and emergency tools.Though usually absent; flares, flashlights, medical kits and fire extinguishers may come in handy in worse-case scenarios.
Check fluids in the car periodically. Check the oil weekly. Check the brake and power steering fluids and engine coolant transmission fluids monthly or before a long trip to be sure they are full. Check fluids when the engine is cold. Fill the wiper fluid if necessary. Read the owner's manual for directions on how to check the fluids. Engine fluid levels—including oil, brake fluid and power steering fluids—are easy to check via dipsticks found under the hood. Engine coolant is visible in a plastic container apart from the radiator on newer vehicles.
2
Test the battery before a trip. Although you can take have the battery tested by a mechanic, you can check for obvious signs of corrosion on the terminals or for signs of cracks or leaks. Have the battery fixed or replaced immediately if you find anything wrong.
3
Activate your windshield wipers and sprayer to be certain they work. If your washers and wipers are not working effectively, you could be putting yourself in serious danger. If the weather turns bad suddenly or you need to remove something from your windscreen in a hurry. You should therefore check the condition of your wipers on a regular basis. Make sure there are no cracks or sections which may split, and replace them if you suspect even the slightest bit of damage.
4
Check your air filter before a long trip, as it can affect fuel efficiency and engine performance. If it's been a long time since you changed your air filter, it might be a good idea to change it before a trip. A dirty air filter will cause lack of power. If you want to change it yourself, your owner's manual has the directions.
5
Check your tire wear by using a penny or tread gauge. Tires heat up on long trips which can cause blowouts on worn out tires. Make sure the spare tire is inflated and serviceable and the jack is present. It's a good idea to check them periodically even if you aren't going on a long trip.
6
Check to be certain that all lights and signals are functional on your car. You will need the help of another person for this. Sit in the car, turn on each light or signal and ask your friend to tell you if it is working or not. Replace bulbs as necessary. Note: occasionally, lights may not work because a fuse needs replacing.
7
Ensure that you have all emergency equipment inside your car, and that everything works properly. Emergency equipment includes, an up-to-date map, cell phone, spare tires and emergency tools.Though usually absent; flares, flashlights, medical kits and fire extinguishers may come in handy in worse-case scenarios.
Simple vehicle inspection
It's about how to do simple vehicle inspection before starting a short journey. By doing this you might be safe from get crashed. This fit2drive campaign, a campaign about safety vehicle inspection and safety traffic tips. Stay connected to watch more video of our campaign.
Support our #fit2drive campaign.
https://www.facebook.com/fit2drive1
https://twitter.com/fit2drive1
Support our #fit2drive campaign.
https://www.facebook.com/fit2drive1
https://twitter.com/fit2drive1
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)